Showing posts with label Kitchens Remodeling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kitchens Remodeling. Show all posts

Friday, December 9, 2011

How to Design a Kitchen - Tips for Designing Kitchens

Posted by MAKMU ta On Friday, December 09, 2011

How to make a kitchen? What color paint the kitchen? Where to locate the kitchen? How to decorate the kitchen? How to organize the kitchen? Below are some tips to make your kitchen is super cute and functional.
Usually the kitchen is heart of the house, which is always a familiar venue to have breakfast, lunch, to get work at any time.
Given the importance of kitchen cooking times should be nice and cozy, that why kitchens must be comfortable, practical and functional. When considering the design of your kitchen, consider these aspects that based on the expertise of specialists:


1- Clarify what you like and dislike about your current kitchen and defines aspects such as:
- How many people work simultaneously in the kitchen?
- What kind of chef work there?
- You daily supply your kitchen or you need to allocate space to store supplies for a long time?
- Do you have enough ventilation in your kitchen?
- You will use your kitchen as a daily meeting place with the family?
- Do you have to allocate an area for washing clothes? Some small departments use a section of the kitchen for laundry.


2- Where to locate the kitchen:
- If you have the option of choosing the location of your kitchen, make sure that the path between it and the dining room as short and expeditious as possible.
- Dispose, if you can, the disparities between the two spaces: it will not only be uncomfortable and tiring to serve or withdraw the table but also it will be dangerous.
- Take care of natural light and the orientation of the room: In south facing you get good light without direct sun (which in summer can be a blessing), but if you are looking for the sun in the
morning, the windows to the east will be more appropriate.

Kitchen design with bar by Sandra Harrigan
 
3- How to organize activities of the kitchen?
The experience specialize in kitchens indicates that there are certain basic considerations to keep in mind when designing a kitchen. The following steps will allow you to organize
functionally:
A. Define the "work triangle":

Kitchen Design: Pedini Italian Fitted Kitchens



- In a functional kitchen (unless it is developed on one wall), the "union" of the refrigerator, the kitchen and the dishwasher must be what is known as "work triangle".
- At each vertex of the triangle or around them, the activities that most important and characteristic of the kitchen preparation, cooking and cleaning food.
- The "work triangle" is the shortest distance between the refrigerator, the main surface of cooking and dishwasher, measured from the front axle of each artifact (now appliances have also been incorporated). The correct design ensures that the activities firing focus in one area, leaving everything you need close at hand.
- To make the triangle work optimally, the sum of its 3 sides should not be greater than 8m and separately, should not be less than 1.20m or more than 2.70m.
- If your kitchen cooks working simultaneously 2 or more, install a work triangle for every cook and although it may overlap one side of each triangle, the other two should not cross. The artifacts can be shared or divided.
- If you define more than 1 triangle in your kitchen, try to at least one of which is securely located.


B. Install cabinets, counter-tops and furniture that have a height adjustable base:

Kitchen furniture design: Daniele Lago

- Work surfaces are important elements for cook; so consider heights that are useful for people of different sizes and work in different ways, standing or sitting.
- Work at least 2 levels: one between 0.72 and 0.92 m; and another between 0.92 and 1.14 m.
So have a suitable in for each task and provide an additional design element.

- Where there will be sitting people (dining room, peninsula, island or bar) leaves at least 30 to 50 cm free space for the legs.
- If your kitchen is small (less than 14 sq.m) allocate at least 4 m linear base cabinets with a depth of 50cm at least.
If larger, consider not less than 5 m linear with a depth equal or greater; that are not include the area long blind corners.

- Distribute covered on both sides of the cooking area and, if possible, further deepening the cover of the fires to the bowl hand with wooden spoons, utensils, salt and other elements.
- Round the open corners of the furniture.
 
C. Install hanging furniture with different heights and measures:
- Not all the wall units have to be at the same height; upload it or lower it to better accommodate the different levels.
- In small kitchens (less than 15 sq.m) to be at least 3.60 m linear 76 cm hanging furniture in height. In larger kitchens, locate at least 4.80 m.
In both cases, include shelves that have a minimum depth of 30 cm and can be moved to different heights.
- If you want to hang cabinets also on the hood, oven or refrigerator, but do not leave appliances installed within them.



D. Maximize storage space:
- Add extensible drawers and shelves as possible; extensions located in the base cabinets, improve the accessibility of the corners.
- Design drawers of different sizes between base cabinets and hanging furniture, to have more storage space and add interest to the design.



 Corner Drawer designed by: heritagecabinetry.biz

E. Examine circulations and accesses:
- No major traffic must pass through the "work triangle".
- There should be no movement of people sitting behind eating. If any, leave a passageway of at least 1.65 m in width.
- In areas with seating, allow at least 90 cm free from the edge of counter or table to a wall or similar.
- If your kitchen works only one person cook, simply leaving 1.10 m width for the corridors that surround the islands of work and 0.76 m for the rest.
But if 2 person simultaneously working in coo , extend it to 1.25 m.
- The doors require a minimum width of 80 cm and no more than 60 cm deep in the direction of movement.
A typical mistake is not considering a door wide enough to go with the cooler you want to have.
- Take care that there is no interference between the door and the doors of furniture and equipment.



F. Check the cooking area:
* Kitchen:
- Never install the front area of ​​the fire under a window that can be opened; wind could extinguish the fire and let the gas escape.
- Never put curtains on windows that located above the cooking area as they could catch fire.
- Consider extinguishers, smoke detection systems and ventilation systems for kitchen spaces.
- If you can, avoid putting your fridge next to the oven, separate them with a panel of chipboard.

* Microwave:
- The best location depends on how you or your family use it.
- From the point of view of safety and accessibility, it shall located adjacent to convenient work desks and in a position such that the bottom of it is between 0.60 to 1.20 m on the ground level.
- Consider adequate ventilation around it.

G. Check the location of the sink and dishwasher:
- Once installed, the dishwasher will be difficult to move into your kitchen, it brings a whole network of associated piping, so that- if you have not installed- analyze carefully their next location, and if you remodel; then know that it will be cheaper not to move from its current location.
- Elevate the dishwasher 20 to 30 cm of the floor for easy loading and unloading (this will generate a variation in the deck height).

4- Discuss alternatives kitchen color
- When choosing the color of your kitchen, consider the feelings that the different tones produced within a space. May completely change the visual perception and the "atmosphere" of your kitchen.
- Sense of order in a kitchen can be accentuated with a limited color range.

5- Check the wiring
- In addition to the outlets and protection needed for each area, be sure to examine the general lighting and light support on the dishwasher, kitchen and work areas.

6- Define the area for trash
- The garbage must be protected from animals and insects, in a place of easy entry and exit. The space under the sink is the most used location.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

The Kitchen and Bar "Breakfast Bar"

Posted by MAKMU ta On Sunday, November 27, 2011

Although every day we are looking for larger spaces for life, unfortunately and with the price of housing, we are obliged to reduce these areas to the point of providing dual-use to a single room.
This is the case of the kitchen in the lounge or also called, kitchenettes. Many of us need an office where we make daily meals.
To do this, at times, used furniture visually small and light, they do not carry too much space.
Another option is to create a "kitchen bar' or "breakfast bar"; this idea is simply to divide the space in the kitchen and lounge with a kind of bar and where they are placed high stools to eat, drink or just a chat while using the kitchen.




Saturday, November 26, 2011

Using Soffits in Modern Cabinet

Posted by MAKMU ta On Saturday, November 26, 2011

It's best to have soffits in modern cabinets; having them give many advantages and functionality, such as:
1- Anchored to the joists above and upper structure of the cabinets screwed to the soffit framing to prevent sag.
- The open top cabinets are nothing but dirt and grease collection points, soffits cure that.
- It added function of carrying wires, especially network, power and coax for tv's is more prevalent today; as noted with the flat panel TV on an arm and the wiring hidden.
- You can use the soffit for installing security sensors and cameras for customers as well and it work exceptionally well and in many cases you have been able to put a small 3x3 one way glass or smoked plexi with a small frame flush mounted and be able to hide the cameras while the camera can still work and even has some up down left right adjustment.
- Soffits also used in the past and present to carry heating and cooling or allow a duct from the range hood to go through the ceiling invisibly and exit thru the wall or attic at any place along the soffit.
- Another use for them if a person is creative is to install a false top inside the cabinet that is held magnetically and when opened allows access to the soffit for temporary storage of valuables (also works in laundry room cabinet soffits).

Installing Ceiling Beam

Posted by MAKMU ta On Saturday, November 26, 2011

The goal of putting the beam in to create a simple visual boundary between the kitchen and dining area and break up the ceiling. It also makes the kitchen feel a bit more rustic.
Buy a 4x6 beam, I start clean it up with an
portable planer, sanded and stained. You will really impress with Ryobi tools good price, reliable under DIY use and they sell pretty much everything you need.

How to installed beam:
- Mark the ceiling and drill holes for the lag bolts (7 in long); use six to hold the beam. These go into the 2x4 truss above ceiling
- Cut the beam 1/4 in longer than the space it needs to go into.
- Cut a hole in one wall the size of the beam.
- Lift the beam, slide it into the hole, bring it up into place and slide it solid against the other wall.
- Use upright 2x4 on each end (with some small pieces of wood for protection) of the beam to hold it into place.
- Lag bolt the beam from above.
- Drill and lag bolt the end of the beam that is not in the hole.
- The bolt will be covered by the crown molding.
The other end sits in hole and "floats", this allows for the beam to expand and contract without pulling away from the wall and leaving a gap.


Remaining things to do:
- Trim out the edges of the cabinets (need to make the trim).
- Give all the cabinets touch-up staining and a final coat of sealers.
- Finish the kick-plate drawers.
- Complete some hardware, hang a few doors and drawer fronts.
- Brocade the ceiling where patched.
- Hang the beam.
- Put of crown molding.
- Put shoe molding (maple to match the floor) around everything.

Friday, November 25, 2011

Building and Installing the Soffit Shelf

Posted by MAKMU ta On Friday, November 25, 2011

Fabricate the shelf that goes around the kitchen soffit, then glue and air-nail 1/8 cherry plywood to a center core of 1/2 maple plywood. Left the center set back to allow it to mount to the strips.
When you mount the shelves on the strips (tap it in place with a mallet), you will have the unexpected result of having them stay up on their own. Once you put the 45 degree corner piece in place, it became very solid.
I have to basically build the corner piece in place, buy marking, cutting, then hand planing the pieces to fit. If everything were perfect, the piece would have 22.5 degree sides. In this case, they ended up being 21 on one site and 24.5 on the other. It takes a little while to get a good fit but having tight joints is worth it.

Adding Ceiling Beam to the Kitchen Plan

Posted by MAKMU ta On Friday, November 25, 2011

To add a ceiling beam across the front of the kitchen. Reasons for using single beam:
- It helps define the "boundary" of the kitchen, it also ties the soffit in.
- It adds a bit of a rustic feeling, which is what we are looking for: rustic feeling, high quality workmanship.
- It's not expensive to do.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

How to Hang Pot Rack

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

Getting the lights and pot rack lined up to the island is not hard, it just takes a little bit of time; here is what you need:
- Plumb-bob.
- String (Mason's line is the best).
- Ruler.
- Small Square.
- A few nails and hammer.
- Painter's tape.

1- Initial set up:
- Set the rack and lights on island, in the positions you want them to be on the ceiling.
- Make sure you have everything where you want it and that everything is centered.
- Have a someone else to look at it and verify its correct.

2- Marking the pain points on ceiling:
- The two pendant lights make the "long axis" of the layout.
- Put tape on the island and mark the center of the lights.
- Use a plumb-bob to transfer the marks to the ceiling.
- Check the marks against the closest side wall, just to make sure things were OK.


3- Laying out the ceiling:
- Drive a nail at the two points you marked on the ceiling and stretch a string tightly between them.
- Once you figure out where you want the chains to go, mark the positions on the ceiling along the line.
- Using a square, mark the positions from the line where the pot-rack bolts actually go.
- One the marks were in place, check everything against the side wall to verify.
- Put the pot rack chains going slightly outward in both directions; this helps stabilize it and reduce the "swing set" effect. Once a few pans were put on it, it hardly moves at all.

4- Mounting the rack:
- Using toggle-bolts, etc.
- Drive nails through the ceiling where the bolts when and when up in the attic and put some blocking in place.
- Pulling out insulation and putting this in is a pit of a pain, but don't skip it.
- Here is a fairly good article from Lowes on adding blocking for a rack: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Build/hngpotrck.html

How High Lights and Rack Should Be

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

- Pendants should be 30" to 40" ins above the counter top.
- You should be able to see through the island to a person you are talking to.
- For the pots hanging from the rack, a 20" long pan (includes handle) should be about 30 in off the counter but still reachable by the shortest person using the kitchen.

Dimmable Fluorescent Bulbs

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

To help reduce energy consumption, use dimmable fluorescent bulbs in the kitchen.
These give the same amount of light as 65W incandescent, but only use 15W. With 10 recessed lights in the kitchen, you will look at saving 300W (using dimmer) to 500W (full power).


How they compare: the light is whiter, even when dimmed; dimming works fairly well.
No buzzing but they do take a second to come on, all in all they are the right way to go. That being said, you will keep 40W incandescent in the island pennants for now, to keep the light on the counter surface a bit warmer.

Kitchen & Hutch - Paint & Caulk

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

Painting Advice:
Buy good primer, paint, caulk, brushes and additives; so you will get a good job.
Try to use Sherwin-Williams Pro-classic waterborne latex acrylic paint in semi-gloss. It seems to be really good paint. It flows nice, covers well and does not show brush marks.
It is designed for interior cabinets, furniture, etc.
 

Then add Floetrol paint, it makes the paint flow better and extends the drying time.
This allows for the very smooth, brush-stroke free finish.

Caulking:
Once assembled, every joint and interface was caulked with GE latex/silicone caulk. Here is how to get a good caulking job:
- Lightly sand the surface.
- Wet the surface with a damp cloth.
- Apply a small bead of caulk; pushing the tube not pulling.
- Smooth with my finger.
- Run a wet cloth lightly over it.
- Lightly sand again once dry.

How to Install the Shoe Molding

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

Here is a neat tutorial on easy2diy on how to do it. Use poplar for the base since it's pretty tough and takes paint really well.

Kitchen Design Guidelines

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

Below a summary of the kitchen design guidelines for minimum clearances and traffic flow from NKBA:
- Doorways should be at least 32 in wide and not more than 24 in deep; when two counters flank a doorway entry the minimum 32 in-wide clearance should be allowed from the point of one counter to the closest point of the counter on the opposite side.
- Walkways should be 36 in wide.
- Work aisles should be at least 42 in wide in one-cook kitchens, and at least 48 in wide in multiple-cook kitchens.
- The work triangle should be no more than 26 ft, with no single leg of the work triangle shorter than 4 ft nor longer than 9 ft.
- If two or more people cook at the same time, a work triangle should be placed for each cook.
One leg of the primary and secondary triangles may be shared, but the two should not cross one another.
- No major traffic patterns should cross through the work triangle.
- No entry, appliance or cabinet doors should interfere with another.
- In a seating area, 36 in of clearance should be allowed from the counter or table edge to any wall or obstruction behind it if no traffic will pass behind a seated diner.
- If there is a walkway behind the seating area, 65 in of clearance total, including the walkway should be allowed between the seating area and any wall or obstruction.

How to Sanding

Posted by MAKMU ta On Thursday, November 24, 2011

- You should always sand after the primer coat if you use water-based primer; it raises the soft part of the grain and you need to get this smoothed down for good results.
- You can quickly do the surface with an orbital sander, palm sander or even a sanding block; use 120 grit paper and don't over-do it.
- For beadboard use a fine grit drywall sanding sponges with the sharp angle side; it easily gets into the beads.
If you want the sponge to last, wrap a sheet of sandpaper around it and use it that way.


Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Working on Kitchen Island and Hutch

Posted by MAKMU ta On Wednesday, November 23, 2011

To give the hutch a farmhouse feel, put grills in the cabinet doors; we got the idea from touring through the PDX Street of Dreams.


Since most of the hardware in the kitchen is either brushed or antique nickle, we advice you to go to Rockler.

Working With Granite

Posted by MAKMU ta On Wednesday, November 23, 2011

1- Cutting: below steps explain how to cut granite:
-  Firstly made the cutting board by attaching 1x2 pieces to a piece of OSB; this will support the granite and allow for space for the saw blade. Also ran two strips along the bottom as support.
- For large pieces, use a tile circular saw that has a water feed.
- Put tape on the tile to see marks.
- Mark the tile at 4 in off of where you want to cut to allow for the saw guide; mark a "V", it's much more accurate to align to.
- Clamp a piece of plywood as a straight-edge.
- Cut tile with the saw going pretty slow; and go real slow at the end of the cut, so you don't break the tile out.
- Lightly sand the cut edge using 220 grit to remove the sharpness, and make sure the sander is at a steep angle, so you don't scratch the polished surface.

2- Installing:
- Make sure the wood surface is totally flat, use a block plane to make sure every bump and imperfection in the plywood was planed flat. Also pay attention to where pieces of plywood come together.
- Build a small fixture to set the overhang of the granite. Granite is made of 1/2" plywood, with three pieces of tape to add a slight additional thickness for the glue.
- Dry fit the tiles first, start in the corner and work out. With large tiles, the best way to get a good corner is to do a miter and put an 18x18 in the corner.
- Apply polyurethane glue in line 1" apart.
- Install the tiles: corner is the toughest, since you need to get the overhang right on both sides.
- Once the tiles are in place, tape them together so they don't drift around as the glue foams and expands, and clamp the front across the joint to make sure everything is OK.
- Continue install the tiles.
- If needed to clamp the tiles in a back, try to put something heavy on them.
- Keep the joints really tight, basically butting the tiles next to each other. The chamber in the tiles will give a 1/16" joint, which will get filled with epoxy grout.

3- Install the Front Edges:
- Cut the pieces 1" wide with the tile saw and put a small bevel on the edges. Use polyurethane glue to attach and holding them in place with quick-grip clamps for 4 hours until the glue set.


4- Grouting:
- Grout the joints using Spectra-Lock epoxy grout. The joints are hardly noticeable, so mix 4 parts black with 1 part brown to match the stone color.

How to Build and Install Your Own Drawers

Posted by MAKMU ta On Wednesday, November 23, 2011

- Normal drawers slides require that the drawers be 1" less than the width of the opening, but make them 1-1/16" thinner instead because if they are an extra 1/16" too thin, you can shim the slides if needed.
If they are 1/16" too wide, they may bind and there is little you can do about it except build a new drawer.
- Use fixture to mount the slides to inside the cabinets, clamp it to the face-frame of the cabinet and use a self-centering bit to drill the pilot holes for the slides.
There are two sets of holes - one for drawers and the other for shelves (they need to sit back behind the doors).
You can get self-centering bits from any hardware or building store; they are typically used for drilling hinges on doors.

Beadboard on the Cabinets

Posted by MAKMU ta On Wednesday, November 23, 2011

We advice you to visit Shurway building supply for cherry lumber and plywood.
One of the great things about Shurway, is that you never quite know what you will find there. They always carry the basics - lumber, molding and a good selection of hardwood plywood, but there are usually two or three special items for sale. Another great thing is that their prices are always good.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Building Drawers Boxes

Posted by MAKMU ta On Tuesday, November 22, 2011

We advice you to use laminated pine to make the drawer sides, and to use plywood.
The drawers need 8 pieces so far, and we need 12 more pieces for the island drawers and all the pull out shelves.

Steps for drawer building process :
- Cut the pieces to width and length plus at least an inch.
- Use a joint-er to plane off the saw marks.
- Route 1/8 round-overs on all for corners.
- Use dado blade to cut in the recess for the drawer bottom.
- Cut the pieces to final length.
- Drill holes for assembly screws.
- Sand with 220 grit.

Use 1 5/8" sheet-rock screws and a good bead of wood glue on the corners. Try dipping the tip of the screws in polyurethane glue to allow easy driving.

Pull-out, Modify and Install Garbage

Posted by MAKMU ta On Tuesday, November 22, 2011

The problem is that garbage is a bit too tall to fit, I read about this technique in a magazine:
1- Lower the entire assembly by 3/8 of in by taking it apart, re-drilling the support holes, moving the screws and grinding the excess off.
2- Reroute the drain plumbing to the back of cabinet.

This will give you a whole lot more usable cabinet space under the sink.

Be sure that long drain pipe from right sink has good downward pitch, also the pre-finished maple plywood shown, along with the poly glued joints, make a very water-resistant cabinet.

To deal with the last 1/4 in of interference, ground the back of garbage can down about 3/4 of in.

Working In Progress - 4

Posted by MAKMU ta On Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Today we finish:
- Installing the cabinets boxes.
- Put in the plywood base for the granite counter tops.
- Install the windows, includ building a small bump-out to make the sill deeper on the left one.
- Got the appliance in and working.

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